Hello all,
I found it near impossible to find any replacement pickguards for the Fender Thinline Telecaster with P90s. It looks like this...
http://www.zzounds.com/item--FEN262300
Anyone have any idea where I can find a replacement? Most of the top listed distributors on google did not come through for me.
Due to the fact that even WD doesn't have them (and I'm surprised) with 51 models listed here for just one Thinline with single coils, you may call their custom pickguard dept. or email. The drill is, you trace your pickguard onto a piece of paper, and mail it to them, exact size, and they will make one for you. It's how they got started, and what they do best.
Like a bird on the wire,
like a drunk in a midnight choir
I have tried in my way to be free.
I just got a totally newfangled idea!! I'll just repaint it! :o :lol:
What do you suggest is the best way to do this? It's removable and can be painted separately, I just want to make sure it retains its original, glossy pickguard look.
I just got a totally newfangled idea!! I'll just repaint it! :o :lol:
What do you suggest is the best way to do this? It's removable and can be painted separately, I just want to make sure it retains its original, glossy pickguard look.
Base coat, clear coat - acrylic enamel. I did it on sections a van, all over, front to back.
Preparation is key, not too deep of a scuff, or you will need filler/primer. A good clean wipe with alcohol - reducer might melt it, and lacquer thinner will melt and stick the rag to it right away. :roll: Remove all grease and fingerprints.
Ummm... flex agent could be an issue. I wouldn't recommend painting plastic which has the potential to bend & crack paint. Flex agent in the paint will help, or buy automotive bumper paint. Oh well, see how the others weigh in on this. 8)
Like a bird on the wire,
like a drunk in a midnight choir
I have tried in my way to be free.
Should I just sand the black color down with a high grit sandpaper? Prime it, use SPRAYpaint, and finish with coats of acrylic enamel?
Use a superfine paper or just a scuffing pad, if that isn't too rough. You don't want to leave any grooves or cuts. Try to get the whole thing as matte and consistent as possible. That's the type of thing I would screw down to a board and go over with the whitish grey-type finishing paper or possibly my orbital sander, or rubber sanding block with a fine and smooth grit.
You're already ahead of what is required in most projects, and you can begin at the third or final stage. :wink:
http://homerenovations.about.com/od/toolsbuildingmaterials/a/artsandgrit.htm
It looks like a 320 or finer grade, 400 or more, up to 800. I call the 320: wet/dry or "black stuff" and it has a green paper back side. As far as I am concerned, that stuff is too coarse and rough, and cuts too much, particularly on plastic. I recommend whitish grey, very thin paper; I'm not seeing any here, but I think it is 400.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandpaper
I'm a little wary about the paint not being flexible - once it is on the guitar, it won't flex unless something presses on it. I would like another opinion, so I don't misguide you, but I believe that rubbing alcohol will clean it nicely before paint. On metal or wood (I use alcohol on wood) it is standard to use enamel reducer. You can not use terpentine (mineral spirits) or paint thinner (same as Varsol) because they leave oil which repels or "fish-eyes" the paint. I don't want you to have to buy something as exotic, that you would hardly use again, nor do I want your pickguard to melt. If you can borrow some, try it on the reverse side. Or use alcohol and dry immediately, do not leave streaks which occur from the particulate or sanding 'dust'. Spray in very, very light coats, sweeping from side to side, in a fine mist to avoid runs or orange peel.
Like a bird on the wire,
like a drunk in a midnight choir
I have tried in my way to be free.
… or you could use a spray paint formulated for plastic:
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=118
not difficult to find -- I've seen it at Home Depot.
one general tip: if you ever are worried about compatibility of paints, e.g., (real) enamel vs. acrylic vs. poly-lacquer vs. nitro lacquer …., it is always safe to use shellac between coats of differing types to minimize interactions. this is especially good for sealing hand-painted designs of one type (say acrylics) before finishing in a lacquer of any sort.
-=tension & release=-
